posted 02-08-2000 05:17 AM         

Done in (of all things) a 50ml flask that someone gave me as a joke (with a matching ringstand!). For those who haven't seen a 50ml flask, it's a tiny thing that's a cute mini desk ornament. You can't even fit a dime into the neck. You could use it to hold a single pencil or pen upright.

Heatsource- 60w halogen light that'd been burning for awhile, turned off, and inverted.

It was all kinda done in the background of the days activities when I thought about it. Water from melted icecubes (no distilled around).

Have had NO luck with smallscale in the 1/8-1/4oz range despite multiple tries. Always got... nuthin'. Not even freebase pfed back. Maybe benzaldehyde. just nothin'. Thought there was no way this was gonna work. It was kinda a joke between my partner and I.

filtered, lyed, extracted, added 5-6 drops of muriatic to pH 7 or so (crappy narrow range pH papers).... set the water in a bowl..... looked up sometime later.... whoa. pinwheels from hell. gorgeous. better lookin' than any of the street stuff I've dissolved and dropped on glass to look at. Maybe 3/4g yield. My scale is a pieced together thing from a bunch of little plastic cheapie scales.

Not economical, not worth doin'.... but dammit- that little 50ml flask stepped up and said "today I become a man" and made the warcry "giddyup!".

actually... could prolly do 2-3g equally as painlessly in the little flask. if starting point was l-ephed... yield would be 100% d-meth? Instead of Warlocks estimated 20% d-meth from most pfeds? 2-3g of 100% d-meth X 5 =..... something as good as 10-15g cleaned up streetcrank with pfed as starting point? na... nothing's that fucking easy... theres something in the equation to monkey things up somewhere.

I'm gonna load up a rig and do something fun for awhile for the first time in a couple days. Wish me luck

(and the funnier thing is that I'm famous in the aquarium hobby for breaking the "size" barrier of required tanks for long term tank success. the world anxiously watched my slapped together site for news about the worlds smallest thriving reeftank - really just kind of a joke I threw together on my desk, but it piqued the interest of the world for some reason. Netscape had me on their whats new or whats cool page. My partner says "great, but what fucking good are these tiny things")

GIDDY UP AND GO-GO-GADGETMETH

posted 02-08-2000 05:26 AM         

dwarf poppies in dixie cup hydroponically, genetically engineered tiny coca bushes off the sloping side of a bottlecap, and picobrewed beer.

took 2 pictures of the flask before and along the way- for posterity. will try to post just so people can see the hilarity.

Foco's got the record for smallest scale (unless it was a joke- I tried 3 times and couldnt make it go). But this whole thing was run like a real reaction, just on a tiny scale.

Worlds Most Useless Talent- successfully scaling things down so small that they arent even worth doing.

posted 02-08-2000 07:39 AM         

But seriously, I have a couple of questions:

Is PolarPure used for water purification because I have this wonderfully stupid line about gold panning in the Sierra's and needing it to neutralize possible arsenic in the water (what the fuck ever, maybe they don't know either.) Problem is they all wanted to show me pathetic little bottles of bullshit. No one ever heard of PolarPure. I hope it's not a horse thing because, like church, those feed places give me the creeps. All I know is that horses are big and made of glue.

If you get bored, could you explain your setup in a little more detail? All I know so far is the push/pull method and for what you are describing I'm thinking of those little wax bottles filled with colored water that I used to choke on as a kid.

Did you gas it? Did it just sit there mixed together? 2-3 grams is about 200%-300% more than I've got so far.

I now have 8 grams of matchbook RP that I've cleaned, reacted, cleaned, reacted, cleaned, pulverized, dried for a day in an oven set at an accurate 175F, and prayed over.
I've had great luck forming iodine crystals from tincture (2% and 7%) that I washed, washed, and washed some more.
I've used E, E freebase, and a special blend of the two.

I've pre-reacted the E and I2 and heated the mix to 150F. I added pre-heated RP to this and produced lots of smoke several times now.
I've fucked up all kinds of ways and hopefully learned each time.

But still no weird al. The best was some longish acting E that pissed me off so much I cranked up the heat to high and watched it burn.

I am determined!!! Dammit. I think I have a line on some real RP (thanks, evil ass Bankrobber) and I just learned some more things from Worlock's new site, but I'm still looking for successful reaction descriptions.

Thanks.

------------------
Excuse the tube, but I haven't eaten today.
Alice In Chains

posted 02-08-2000 09:08 AM         

This part of the procedure may be conventional wisdom, but it doesn't make sense to me. Hydriotic acid and ephedrine will produce iodoephedrine (an intermediate in the ephedrine reduction) and water. I believe that iodine will attack the benzene ring or displace hydrogens long before removing the alchohol functional group (thus wasting ephedrine and iodine), so why would you want to react ephedrine and iodine directly?

Here it is for HI and ephedrine. Ephedrine is referred to as JoeOH, and iodoephedrine is referred to as JoeI. By this system, methamphetamine would be referred to as JoeH. Take a look at the molecular
structures, and this symbolism will make perfect sense.

HI + JoeOH -> JoeI + H2O

I am very likely wrong about some things in this post as my understanding of organic chemistry is rather hazy. Educated criticism would be greatly appreciated.

posted 02-08-2000 09:27 AM         

This was a reaction with 1.5g of freebase E. I'll post a picture later of the little flask and stand. It's not a typical setup of mine, it just looked like something that you HAD to try to make speed in

posted 02-08-2000 09:41 AM         

Red flags? Shit remind me to tell about trying to buy RP the other day. I'm getting bold in my desperation.

In a bizzare way I'm kinda proud of my iodine stained fingers.

posted 02-09-2000 04:24 AM         

most important things learned over the last few months trying to crack the small scale OTC-

1) don't hit your P with a base trying to save your drains. (this was actually learned early in my training, not here)

2) Homogenize your I2, redP, and pfed- most important piece I was missing. I ran failed synth after failed synth, never getting ANYTHING out. Reaction always went perfect after I figured the redP thing out and switched to Polar Pure. Couldnt figure out what was wrong. Reaction went, not violently, very controlled, but no nothing... just a sweet smell at the end. Didn't figure the benzaldehyde smell until I was reading through catsynth articles at Rhodiums. I improved on every possible aspect. Still nothing at the end. Posted a few times about small scale failures. Most bees said HI/P isn't suited to small scale, and can't reliably be done. A few said it could. I still kept working at it trying to find the key. The only kind of weird thing was a sticky ball of "waxed" redP at the end that smelled sweet. I figured it was something in the matchbookP that was somehow gluing itself with the product, and that the final product was stuck in the ball- but there was so little of it that it couldnt be pulled out. This little flask reaction wasn't going to be any different from the last one. Nothing new had been learned. Serendipity. I knew I wasn't going to be able to pour the redP into the little flask quickly enough for my tastes at the end. smushed the freebase pfed and the I2 together. let sit, smush, let sit, until a uniform color was obtained. threw the pfed/I2 into the freezer, threw the redP into the freezer. remembered to get them out after an hour or so. homogenized well with mortar and pestle. funneled the mix in. after reaction, no gluey ball of redP in the bottom. it was crumbly. problem all along- lack of homogenization caused "hotspots", somehow fucking the pfed, creating a glueball of everything. glueball was never affected by water.

I never expected this to work. People said smallscale was not a reality. If I couldnt get 3-7 gram reactions to go, logic dictated that a 1.5g reaction would certainly be a failure.

Funny thing. It took me so long to figure out (stumble actually) upon the real reason, that I had learned so much about every other part of the reaction. Thought I was beating my head against the wall, and was kind of mad I hadn't figured out the glueball thing before. Lucky thing I hadn't. So many failures lead to impeccable skills and observations.

Small scale OTC now a reality. No need to order precursor material that could potentially turn into 6 kilos of product (apparently some people are charged with their chemical capacity), and is tracked just to make personal dreams come true. If you happen to be making for personal, and be unlucky enough to get caught- you have a lab capable of producing quite a bit. Hard to say "it was just for me" even if it really was. No one believes it. Kilo of RedP, big push-pull units, and winebottle can make quite a bit. Having to blow off ounce reactions because you think you have to to succeed no longer a problem

1.5g reacted just because it was what was onhand. Could easily be scaled to 4g final yield and go start to finish in 3-4hrs, most of that spent evapping. 4g of stuff that makes even usual large scale HI/P reactions look weak. 4g of stuff that could replace 10g of typical streetgrade. Start with l-ephed, and hopefully have the stuff of yesteryear that you could shoot the residue out of a baggie and get wired. No push pull units, no hoses, no nothing. Small flask with stopper. Entire "methlab" could be used to hold pencils on a desk in it's downtime. Hard to make a 50ml flask out to be for manufacturing and disribution in a court case. It's about the height of a pack of cigarettes.

Everything destroyed or taken offsite today just in case. Entire house actually totally clean for the first time in 4 months. No need for having any equip around for awhile. This could easily be done anywhere, anytime with just about anything as reaction vessel.

Playing with matches paid off. Laugh all you want at the bees working on it. They don't have to have enough P onhand to wire the city just to make personal.

Hint on ordering RedP for personal- unless you can find someone willing to mislabel the chemical (no company on the web would risk this for the average user), the box will arrive stating plainly what the chemical is. Company of origin is probably not the weak link. UPS is apparently taking quite an interest in boxes labeled with phos. Olderbees think about the bee-friendlies chem company's name for the compound. Get it now? It didn't hit me until about a week ago. I may have been the last one to figure it out

posted 02-09-2000 06:35 AM         

E soaked in denatured, filtered until alchol was crystal clear,
Evaporated the alcohol.
Dissolved in water heated to aid solvation
Placed in freezer 45 min, filtered
evaporate water.
retrieved 124gm out of 144gm 86%

To a 2000 ml florence flask
added 124gm E
Added 144 gm of I2, mixed well
Added 55 gm of RP( multiple uses)mixed well

Ooops forgot tape, run around for a while
Return to the flask and the dry stuff has risen up to the neck of the flask neck
It is pushing out a clear suffocating,
gas HI
Stoppered it , taped it, add 2ml of peroxide, over 30 minutes .It is still thick and bubbling slow, placed it on a warming tray. Tthis tray will not boil alchol but will boil acetone barely.

posted 02-09-2000 07:51 AM         

Turned up the heat added 20 gm of I2,
12 grams of P and more water 2ml,
swirled, and the thing almost kicked.

More heat 5 gm of I2, 1 ml peroxide
Partial reaction

Heat, peroxide , another degree of activity

I2 4gm , Rp 3gm and swirl
Finally it goes half ass but it went.

30 minutes of teasing and babying the lil' bastard. 4 or 5 half ass attempts to kick in.
wasted I2,

posted 02-09-2000 10:51 AM         

Hi Worlock, got a peek at your new site (Saturday, I believe) and it looks great but when will it be back? I destroyed all printed info I had. Hope your gogo goes good.

Thanks for the heads up Jester X. If you're an OZ bee could you mail me at auto40780@hushmail.com . I'm not, but I will be traveling to Sydney again soon.

Psyched but gotta run...

posted 02-09-2000 11:36 AM         

an apple a day and all... :P

Worlock: At the addition of reactants next time try an ice bath to chill I2 well, add P, h202, agua... gives you time for connecting condensor etc. plus no escaping gases... bee ready upon removal from bath though...

posted 02-09-2000 12:34 PM         

That's just what I'm looking for. Makin' personal, small scale.

Question:

What do you do about pressure?? If there's no push-pull, but you do use a stopper, how do you keep it from blowing to hell??

This sounds waaaaay easier for personal dreams that anhydrous ammonia!!

Please lemme know, and I'll dance at your wedding (or whatever). You should know what an honor that is, 'cause I haven't danced since they quit making 'ludes!!

Thanks in advance,

ziggy

posted 02-09-2000 04:48 PM         

How much dH2O do you use for such a small reaction?

How long do you leave it on the heat?

How long do you let it react before diluting with dH2O?

Thanks again,

posted 02-10-2000 03:53 AM         

flask was capped with funny little rubber stopper that had 2 very tiny holes. I found it in a box of old random stuff a friend picked up at an antique show. It was the only thing that fit the flask. wasnt worried about pressure. other experiments in small scale showed that push/pull tanks weren't necessary. never saw any pushing/pulling, even with high grade redP. reaction at this scale is not very violent. Once saw a reaction with ~9g matchbookP that was kind of violent.

everything going into the flask was very dry. it sat on my desk for an hour before I did anything. the bottom of the flask was a little warm, so something was going on.

put a couple drops of water in, then put it on the heat. it originally sat on the warm lightbulb for an hour or so. my guess is that most of the reaction happened here. I put in maybe 4 drops over this hour. Then I warmed up a microwaveable hotpad that I use on my fucked up neck, and sat the flask on that for an hour. maybe 3 drops of water in that hour. Then heated a couple inches of water in a coffee cup. Tossed flask in there for an hour, a few more drops. Repeated this 2-3 times.

sorry for the bad notes. this was done in the background of my day, instead of an active project. pulling this off may take a little skill in knowing what you are doing (or not, that other guy pulled it off too) and what you are looking at. keep trying, it's very possible.

other things I thought of during the day-

- h2o2 almost always fucked my reactions. tore up the ephedrine. this was stopped early in the trials. on large scale it worked very well, but it may not be suited to small scale.

- any time I tried to rush things, it fucked up early in the reaction.

posted 02-10-2000 10:48 AM         

The yield so far is a sickening 45%.
Normally I get one good pull and get it all.
This time I had a nasty lye lock (polar solution developed fibrous crystals). The non polar had long thin clear crystals attached to the glass, lots of crystals everywhere, Looked like NaOH and/or ephedrine?
Messed up a normal separatory session
The last pull was a 1/4 oz ,so I get to do several more until I get a decent yield. Just what I wanted today!!

posted 02-10-2000 10:21 PM         

I have no interest whatsoever in speed, but I like to check the posts for new and novel methods in clandestine chemistry.

I must say that if your small scale technique works as stated (I'm sure it does), then it is probably one of the most brilliant discoveries for the average hive bee, because the average hive bee will probably get caught eventually - for illegal activities.

The law can't charge one with manufacturing if the house is without the exculpitory evidence for manufacturing (large quantities for distribution).

Nice piece of work!!!!!

Think small y'all!

posted 02-11-2000 09:21 PM         

The pH meter quit working. I just guess on the pH s. Before I used to be very strict about the pH. Now been adding xs acid each time , it is easy to wash off with acetone.
It has me wondering if it might be better to drop the pH down to a 3 or 4, after the first pull, let it sit an hour or so, To be sure to get a maximum return, then wash the xs off.

posted 02-12-2000 02:13 AM         

It happened again.

50ml flask.

2g freebase